AN Hose Adapters (Straight)

Straight AN hose adapters are hose ends for lines that leave a port in line with it, plus the parts those ends are built from. Besides complete ends for several hose types, this category holds sockets, spare olives, and the nuts, sleeves and adapters that join rigid tube to an AN system.

A reusable end is an assembly. The socket grips the outside of the hose, and the nipple, carrying the swivel nut, screws in from inside to clamp the hose wall between them. Olive-type ends add a ring that pinches the liner onto the nipple; once compressed it stays on the old hose, so re-ending a line needs a new olive.

The AN to O-ring boss fitting here shows two ways of sealing the same straight thread. Both ends share the 1 5/16-12 UNF thread. The AN end seals on its 37° cone, while the ORB end squeezes an O-ring into a chamfer at the port’s mouth. An AN end screwed into an O-ring port will not seal, although the thread fits.

Choose by hose type, then by connection:

• Hose family: standard, lightweight, aramid-braided and PTFE ends, plus ends listed as shrink-type; check the listing for how those attach to the hose. Bore and wall thickness differ between hoses, so match end to hose.
• Spares: standard, lightweight and PTFE sockets, and spare olives in AN4 and AN8, so a damaged end can be rebuilt.
• Size: AN3 to AN20, with threads from 3/8-24 to 1 5/8-12 UNF.
• Rigid tube: aluminium tube nuts and sleeves for flared tube, and male, female and compression-bush adapters for 7.94, 9.5, 12.7 and 15.9 mm tube.
• Other threads: AN8 to 3/8 NPT, and metric M10×1 and M12×1. NPT seals on its tapered flanks and needs a fuel-resistant sealant.
• Material: mostly aluminium, plus brass parts and stainless steel ones such as a male concave AN3 end. Finishes include black, silver, gold, red, blue, two-tone blue/red and chrome.

Flare aluminium tube with a 37° tool; a 45° automotive double flare will not seat on an AN cone. Fit nut and sleeve before flaring, deburr the bore, and check the flare for cracks. Hard line is light and stiff along the body, but should join the engine through hose, as the engine moves on its mounts.

Clean every part, oil threads and cones lightly, and flush the finished line. Tighten with two spanners so the hose or tube does not turn with the nut. Leak test under pressure, then recheck after the first run and heat soak.